Voie de Vézelay, Day 27



Sorge is the capital of truffles; it even has a truffle museum. Fenced in oak forests on the way to Périgueux showed how valuable truffles are.





This day, I only had fourteen miles to walk and like always, passed beautiful sites.







Draw well
Draw well


In walking through the Forest “Forêt Lanmary” I discovered a castle, which seemed to be in a deep sleep for centuries. There was nobody around and everything was firmly locked up. It was a strange feeling peaking into the past with no life anymore in it.






When I arrived in the city of Perigueux, which has approximately 30,000 inhabitants, the difference between past and present was amazing. There were so many tourists visiting this town. The historical sites of Perigueux reach back to Gallo-Roman times. The most fascinating monument of the past for me was the temple of the Gallic goddess “Vesunna.”



Temple of Vesunna
Temple of Vesunna


After the Romans invaded the Celtic people, they erected their own monuments and temples. Beside the left over of an amphitheater, other ruins of the Roman times can be seen.



Remains of a Roman temple
Remains of a Roman temple


During the peak of the pilgrimage to Santiago, Perigueux became a famous pilgrimage town. Two churches speak about this time – the 12th century Cathédral Saint-Front and the even older church Eglise Saint-Etienne de la Cité. In visiting the Church Saint-Etienne, I felt very uncomfortable. It was dark and dreary; even the organ music did not change this feeling.



One of many streets in Perigeux
One of many streets in Perigeux



The Cathedral Saint-Front reminded me of St. Marcus in Venice and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. It had a Byzantine influence; its space was enormous. But, somehow, my enthusiasm for historical buildings had vanished that day. Not even the cheery whiteness of the town – all the buildings and streets were built of the local white limestone – lifted my spirits. It was my last day with Rohan and Eddy and I felt somehow exhausted from the many days of walking. Just before I arrived Perigueux, I got lost again and had to walk 3 extra miles on a busy road. I was considering the idea of stopping all together and, instead, visiting Thich Nhat Hanh’s Plum Village, which was not far from Perigueux.




Main entrance to the Cathedral Saint-Front
Main entrance to the Cathedral Saint-Front





Side entrance of the Cathedral Saint-Front
Side entrance of the Cathedral Saint-Front



One of many street cafes in Perigueux
One of many street cafes in Perigueux



Born and raised in a village along the Danube in Austria, Traude Wild soon ventured out into the world. After a two-year program for tourism in Klesheim/Salzburg, she spent nearly a year in South Africa and Namibia. By returning back to Austria, she acquired a Master of Economics at the University of Vienna. After moving to the United States with her four children, she studied Art History at Arizona State University and stayed in the United States for fourteen years. Here, she was teaching Art History in several Universities like Webster University and University of Missouri-St. Louis. Now, she lives partially in Arizona and Vienna and works together with her husband for the University of South-Carolina, Moore School of business as Adjunct Professor organising and leading Study tours in Central Europe. She also teaches at the Sigmund Freud University in Vienna. Since 1999, she is practicing Zen meditation in the lineage of Katagiri Roshi. She loves to hike and to write and is a student of Natalie Goldberg. During her often many weeks long hikes she brings her awareness into the Here and Now, describing her experiences in an authentic way. She loves to walk pilgrimages. The longest hike so far was the 1,400 km long 88 Temple pilgrimage in Shikoku, Japan in 2016.

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