Voie de Vézelay, Day 28

PÉRIGUEUX – SAINT –ASTIER

 

Just simply alive

Both of us, I

And the poppy

                                             Issa

                            

I decided to continue the Way. There was something bigger than myself, bigger than my frustration of getting lost, bigger than the hurtful feet – it was something, which carried me forward, some inner energy, which did not want to stop.

 

 

Leaving the refuge in rue Gambetta /Périgueux
Leaving the refuge in rue Gambetta /Périgueux

 

It took me more than one hour, through sheer endless rows of houses, to get out of the city. Strong rain and wind were with me all the morning. The rain was so heavy that forest roads turned into little lakes and muddy paths.

 

 

Part of the Benedictine Abbey Chancelade
Part of the Benedictine Abbey Chancelade

 

 

IMG_8598

 

 

 

Sign forbidding mushroom picking
Sign forbidding mushroom picking

 

 

In the little town of Gravelle, I stopped for a coffee and met a young woman with the name Maude. She was a pilgrim too. She told me that she had slept in the forest. She looked unkempt, disorderly and was constantly smoking. I felt uncomfortable with her. Later on, I realized my aversion and regretted not having talked with her more. I hoped to meet her again.

 

 

 

River Isle with mill
River Isle with mill

 

 

When I arrived at the Château Puy-Ferrat, the sun was out again. The Chateau was also a pilgrim’s refuge and I decided to stay overnight. Here I met Maude again. We shared the same room and had good conversations. I was happy to not have given in to my first impression.

 

 

15th century Château Puy-Ferrat
15th century Château Puy-Ferrat

 

 

IMG_8712

 

 

The Château was a fantastic place. Everything was open and free to look at – from the cellar to the attic. Many things were original – like the 15th century roof construction. The wall walk under the roof was totally intact. One could walk around the entire castle.

 

 

One of the rooms of the castle
One of the rooms of the castle

 

 

Part of the original Wall Walk
Part of the original Wall Walk

 

IMG_8639

 

 

Since 1999, Pierre Marzart has owed this place and mainly rents it for weddings. But he also provides rooms for tourists and pilgrims. The price pilgrims pay to stay overnight is incredible cheap. He told me that the 250 acres of land he owns he gave to his friend for use, free of charge. I was impressed by his generosity.

 

Pierre stamping the pilgrim’s pass
Pierre stamping the pilgrim’s pass

 

I also was impressed by the poetic chaos I found on the property of the Château. This place was alive.

 

 

Ruin in the garden of the Châtea
Ruin in the garden of the Châtea

 

 

Little clay figure in the garden of the Château
Little clay figure in the garden of the Château

 

 

A peak into the derelict barn
A peak into the derelict barn

 

 

A statue of Christ with burning heart amongst the chaos and debris of the derelict barn.
A statue of Christ with burning heart amongst the chaos and debris of the derelict barn.

 

 

Dogs, cats, chicken, geese, goats and the humans, all seemed to coexist peacefully.
Dogs, cats, chicken, geese, goats and the humans, all seemed to coexist peacefully.

 

 

gwwien
gwwienhttps://simplyjustwalking.com
Born and raised in a village along the Danube in Austria, Traude Wild soon ventured out into the world. After a two-year program for tourism in Klesheim/Salzburg, she spent nearly a year in South Africa and Namibia. By returning back to Austria, she acquired a Master of Economics at the University of Vienna. After moving to the United States with her four children, she studied Art History at Arizona State University and stayed in the United States for fourteen years. Here, she was teaching Art History in several Universities like Webster University and University of Missouri-St. Louis. Now, she lives partially in Arizona and Vienna and works together with her husband for the University of South-Carolina, Moore School of business as Adjunct Professor organising and leading Study tours in Central Europe. She also teaches at the Sigmund Freud University in Vienna. Since 1999, she is practicing Zen meditation in the lineage of Katagiri Roshi. She loves to hike and to write and is a student of Natalie Goldberg. During her often many weeks long hikes she brings her awareness into the Here and Now, describing her experiences in an authentic way. She loves to walk pilgrimages. The longest hike so far was the 1,400 km long 88 Temple pilgrimage in Shikoku, Japan in 2016.

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