About one hour drive from Puembo lies the picturesque thermal bath Papallacta. Since there was no convenient public transportation, I decided to use Uber to take me there. On the way to Papallacta, we had to drive over the 4000 m high Papallacta pass. Thick fog and rain covered the rugged area. I could not see anything except the immediate road before me.
I planned a hike before my spa visit. I was very concerned because I did not bring waterproof hiking shoes. I also did not have rain gear with me. What a mistake! However, I was lucky! When we arrived in the valley, the rain had stopped and the mist dissolved.
The nearly 2 miles long hike started just beside the entrance building of the spa. The hike called Sendero de la Isla is a circular trail and follows mainly the Papallacta river. I was totally alone in this enchanted area. Sometimes bears come down from the mountain. I would have loved to see one. Instead, only a little mouse crossed my path.
The jungle is called cloud forest. You do not normally think of a jungle at an elevation of over 9000 feet. Orchids and bromeliads, ferns and other plants grow on the trees and give it sometimes a mysterious appearance.
Bromeliads
An ancient tree beside the river
Wild and untamed water of the Papallacta river.
Wooden bridges lead over the river and offer a wonderful view
I was intrigued by the beauty of the plants, many visited by hummingbirds
Lamas grazing on the meadow beside the path
When I returned to the spa, I walked through this gate reminding me of Japanese temple gates
Papallacta means “potatoe earth” in Quechuan. The volcanic fertile soil and the cold climate are ideal for growing potatoes. Now, Papallacta is famous for the thermal bath. Located between the Antisana volcano and the Cotopaxi, it is also a gorgeous area for hiking. Unfortunately, it was so misty that I only managed to see the lower parts of the mountains.
The Papallacta spa consists of 5 pools. Each pool holds water with different temperatures and different features for massages. I planned to stay 7 hours in the spa and took a book with me to read. However, I did not read one page. I wandered from pool to pool. I soaked in the hot water. Then I went to the freezing cold pool in between to refresh. Afterwards, I returned to the hot water again. It was so relaxing. The water has minerals which increase the blood circulation, reduces stress and relieves pain and aches. I did not suffer from any pain, but the water really relaxed me.
View from the inside to two of the pools
I spent most of the time in the hottest pool. Constant steam was rising up and created a misty atmosphere.
Each area had another beautiful view
This was a pool with cooler water. Each section had a headrest at the end and two handles at the sides to hold on. One time, I put my ear on the rock serving as a headrest. It seemed to me that I heard the deep voice of the earth.
Only a few people spent time at the spa. For most people it is a destination for the weekend or holidays. I also signed up for a one hour massage – it was wonderful! I could also have had a chocolate wrap and I am sorry now that I did not sign up for that. Maybe next time.
At 8 pm, the Uber driver picked me up. His 14 year old daughter came with him. She wanted to practice English. We chatted the entire hour until I was brought back to my son’s house.
So beautiful. I wish I was with you!!! Your time in Ecuador makes me feel homesick for that country.
Ecuador is really a special place! I only saw the snow capped Cotopaxi one time just for several minutes. After that, it disappeared into thick clouds. However, even by not seeing the powerful mountains, I was in awe. I can imagine that you are feeling homesick for this country. It would have been great to be with you there. Love, Traude