Solomon Islands 8, Western Province /Marovo Lagoon

Travelling between the islands is a challenge – like many other things on the Solomon Islands. When we wanted to buy tickets for our boat trip to Marovo Lagoon, the ticket office was closed. The person selling the ticket simply did not show up. Not showing up is normal. Lorenz told me that one of the hospitals in Honiara ran out of medicine because the person having the key for the pharmaceutical room was on vacation for over a month. Nobody else was allowed to enter the room. Often, doctors do not show up for work and patients do not come for follow ups. Lorenz had to wait for a visa (he did not have a visa for several months) because the minister of immigration was on vacation and the visa needed his signature- this is island life. However, it is worth taking all these hassles – these islands are magical!

The trip to Marovo Lagoon on the Anjeanette (an old Chinese boat) took 9 hours. We travelled overnight in first class –  a room to sleep with about 15 people on the floor. However, the air-conditioner dropped water all night and in the morning, my blanket was soaking wet. But it was pure luxury compared to to all the others.  Second class was a bigger room in the belly of the boat , but with many more people. On third class, people had chairs to sit on the deck. Tickets in 4th class meant finding a place in the corridors, stairs and in between boxes. It felt like a refugee boat – but I am sure, that the conditions are much worse there.

First class cabin

On third class, people had a chair to sit on the deck overnight

We arrived at Driftwood Lodge on Gatukai Island after a half an hour boat ride and 10 minutes jungle walk and stayed in this lodge for five nights. It was pure paradise!

The “harbour” of Gatukai Island where the Driftwood lodge is located

Second row on the left shows Matt, an Australien who built and runs the lodge. He is a free diver who is able to stay 5 minutes under water without breathing and dives more than 60 m deep. Watching him is watching an elegant fish swimming in the ocean. Adrienne, Ale, Lorenz and I carry the woven bags the crew gave us upon our departure. We sit under the huge entrance gate of the lodge, which is the jaw of a blue whale. Several years ago, the humongeous animal  was swept on shore.

Out of the vertebrae of the whale, one of the artists carved a face. The face looked like Humbaba to me, the protector of the huge Cedar forests in the Gilgamesh Epic – a warning against the ruthless logging industry.

Each of us had a very charming room in the lodge. My room was in the attic with a toilet and shower  on the terrace. The view was spectacular!

The crew of the Driftwood lodge was like a good functioning, traditional family. When we were snorkelling and diving, some crew members were catching fish with their harpoons. The women cooked the fish and served it with delicious vegetables and salads.