Traveling with a four-month-old baby and a three-year-old requires a major adjustment of expectations. Speed is replaced by snacks and naps. Still, the adventure survived—just at toddler pace.

One day we went to Gualaceo, about 35 km from Cuenca, lured by promises of an artsy market.

The art, yet, remained mostly theoretical. Instead, we landed in the middle of a vibrant indigenous community bursting with life. We wandered through a colorful, exotic market and—quite accidentally—into a dance competition between different tribes.

In a corner, colorful clothing was sold. A baby was watching…

Life chicken, dogs and rabbits were sold at the market.

A specialty of Ecuador are roasted guinea pigs

There were stunning costumes, powerful dance moves, and an energy level that put our children (briefly) to shame. It was raining, but no one seemed to notice. There were lots of umbrellas blocking our view – but we saw enough. It had turned out so much better than the plan.


I originally planned to hike the Inca Trail in Ecuador. The trail winds through Cajas National Park. It takes four days, requires a guide, a tent, and enough food to question all my life choices. Unfortunately (or wisely), the trail refuses solo hikers, and I couldn’t find a partner brave enough to sign up. So I let go of the plan.
Instead, I spent more time with family—and that turned out to be the real trail I was meant to walk.
Cajas National Park is about fourty minutes northwest of Cuenca. It rises above 4,000 meters. Yet, it still found its way into our journey. After extensive research and wildly conflicting advice about taking a baby to such heights, we decided to go—and to pay close attention to the baby. It was the right call.

Due to the fertile soil caused by lava ashes, trees are still growing in this heights.
Our guide, Sebastian, brought the landscape to life with stories of flora and fauna. Everyone was happy. This included little Lora, who encountered plants whose colors are still used to paint fabrics.
Sometimes the shorter hike goes much deeper.



Beautiful pattern of plants covering the ground

My family.
