When I turn on the water faucet in the Vienna condo, usually I do not think where the water is coming from – a big mistake! It is one of the treasures in Vienna! Up to the middle of the 19th century, good water was rare in Vienna. Wells in town were contaminated, as a sewage system did not exist. Outbreaks of cholera, typhus and other water related sicknesses were common. Those who could afford it bought water from “Wasserer,” people who transported clean mountain water in barrels into the city. Nobility had often their own water line, but did not share it with the common people. A radical change of Vienna’s water supply happened when emperor Francis Josef ordered a water line to be built from the nearby Schneeberg mountain. Designed by Antonio Gabrielli, it was a masterwork of engineering. For 140 years now, the 150 km long water line brings mountain spring water into the city, supplying Vienna with one of the best waters of the world.
Puchberg/Schneeberg with the Schneeberg Mountain in the background
It was a birthday present for my husband David to show him the area where the Vienna mountain water comes from. We started in the town Puchberg/Schneeberg, from were a cog railway took us up the over 6000 feet high Schneeberg mountain. Just two weeks before, I climbed the mountain with my daughter Anna-Sophie.
View from the mountain in the direction of Hungary with the Neusiedler See (lake) in the far distance,
Fun, vertical climb up part of the Schneeberg mountain
A little bit fatter and I would not have been able to squeeze through the crevice
On our many hours climb up to the top, we did not meet any other person. In contrast, the cog train was completely filled with families and it took only 40 minutes to reach the top.
Map of Schneeberg with the description of the train tracks. My finger points to the place where Anna-Sophie and I started our climb up the mountain.
Salamander train up the Schneeberg
It was fascinating to think that rain falling on the top of the mountain will descend for 16 hours to reach the spring of Kaiserbrunn and journey an additional 24 hours to get to Vienna. Like in Roman times, the water flows by natural gravity over 30 aqueducts for 150 km to the water reservoir in Vienna.
In 1965, the entire region of the Rax, Schneeberg and Schneealpe became a protected area to ensure clean water for the city. Also, a second spring water line was constructed. Pristine nature with healthy forests and meadows are the effects of this decree, which becomes more and more valuable over time. The beauty of nature so close to Vienna was also the reason I wanted to show it to my husband.
A 12th century castle called Araburg overlooking the valley near the village of Kaumberg
The castle never was conquered! It started to deteriorate when the roof was removed because of a roof tax imposed by Empress Maria Theresia (18th century). In the remaining, newly renovated, rooms one can learn about 14th century life in a castle – interesting and entertaining!
We stayed for two nights in the village of Rohr/Gebirge, where we could witness the cutting of the May pole. The celebration started at 11 am in the morning and went way after midnight with lots of music, food, Schnaps and beer. Locals in Lederhosen and Dirndl served the food.
Rohr/Gebirge
Young lady in the traditional Dirndl on her walk to the “Dorfstadl” where she worked as a “Marketenderin” serving Schnaps.
May pole
Two young men (professional woodcutters) cut the huge tree surrounded by masses of trusting people. Lots of fun games where played afterwards. Several local music bands played traditional Austrian country music.
The characteristic features of this area are forests and water. Since the middle of the 19th century, the area is a beloved place for Viennese people to go on “Sommerfrische” (summer retreat). The local government created walks to learn about trees, shrubs, charcoal making and the use of water.
Water canal diverted from the Schwarza river for the use of a mill
Inside the mill
Little pilgrimage chapel near a restaurant called “Kalte Kuchl”, a place existing for hundreds of years to accommodate pilgrims walking to Mariazell.
After visiting the Water Supply museum Kaiserbrunn near Reichenau/Rax, we had a delicious lunch at the Adolf Loos house on Kreuzberg. We enjoyed not only the food but especially the ambience of Jugendstil architecture.
The Loos Haus
All the tables were reserved for guests coming from a summer festival in Reichenau.
