KŌCHI PREFECTURE, TEMPLES 24 – 39
Cape Muroto and Hotsumasakiji (temple 24)
The path along the shore of the Pacific Ocean on road 55 to Cape Murotoi s a long walk for pilgrims. The hard asphalt, the merciless heat and cars constantly passing by is a place for endurance. Since ancient time, Kōchi prefecture got the spiritual name “Place of Ascetic Training”.
Two pilgrims hiking along coastal road 55.
Meoto-Iwa, the husband and wife rocks. The two rocks are connected with a sacred rope of braided rice stalk (shimenawa). According to Shintō, the two connected rocks represent the union of the Kami Izanagi and Izanami and stand for the union of marriage.
One of the tsunami escape platforms
Akuo (Ficus Superba) is a subtropical plant near the coastline. As a defense against the many typhoons, its roots hold on to the rocks and the branches grow horizontally.
Violent coast
When I arrived at Hotsumisakiji (temple 24), it was already late afternoon. Not many pilgrims were there.
Several times a day, a priest cleans the incense holder in front of the hōndō or main hall. As part of the ritual, pilgrims light a candle and incense before walking up the stairs of the temple hall to hit the gong. The sound of the gong announces to the main deity the arrival of the ohenro.
After that, they put a name-slip into a box and chant sutras. The most important Sutra is the Heart Sutra. This Sutra, also called the Sutra of Great Wisdom, reminds the ohenro to see the emptiness of all phenomena. In order to be able to chant the Sutra in Japanese, I made a copy of the Heart Sutra at home and laminated the sheet of paper. Whenever there were groups of pilgrims chanting the “MA KA HAN NYA HA RA MIT TA SHIN GYO” I joined in in order to get in the flow of the chanting.
Pagoda of Hotsumisakiji .
Inside the daishidō of Hotsumisakiji .
Underneath the roots of the tree were stood hundreds of little statues of Jizōs
The humidity caused moss, grass and plants grow on many different places.
1,200 years ago, Cape Muroto was a very special place for Kūkai . At the age of 31 (804 AD), he experienced enlightenment when meditating in a cave on Cape Muroto. It was here that he changed his birth nameto Kūkai, (kū=sky, kai=ocean).
The sunset from Cape Muroto was the highlight of my day.