Hiking up to Shōsanji, temple 12
Shōsanji was the first real mountain temple (at 700 meter) on the pilgrimage. When Kōbō Daishi founded a training place for his teachings on this mountain, there was a legend that told of a large snake living there. He fought off the snake. The name Shōsanji originates from this legend (Shōsan means “burning mountain.) The snake burnt the mountain, but was subdued and shut in the cave by Kōbō Daishi.
This mountain path is the first real challenge for pilgrims and therefore it is called henro-korogashi, which means “henro tumbler”. It refers to the always rising small Dharma-teacher, a doll with Bodhidharma face in sitting posture with a weight at the bottom so that it always sits up whenever pushed down. It signifies the dedication of the ohenro to never give up.
This day was the last day I walked with my Japanese friend Yuko. After reaching Shōsanji, she and her husband Shigeo went back to Tokyo. The good thing was that I did not have to carry my heavy backpack up the mountain; Shigeo brought it to the Nabeiwa-sō, a mountain resort of a Sumitomo company, in which I stayed overnight.
It was a crisp and beautiful morning when we started our several hours hike of 13 km up the mountain. I was sure that Kōbō Daishi was with us.
Start of the hiking trail at Fujiidera (temple 11) to Shōsanji (temple 12). The statue of Kōbō Daishi, with red bibs on his feet, is watching over each pilgrim that begins to walk the path.
Wish fulfilling papers attached to a little shrub in Fujiidera
Incense holder in front of the daishidō, a place where Kōbō Daishi is venerated
Many stairs were leading up the path
View into the valley with Awa City and the Yoshino River in the background
With the elevation, more and more snow covered the path.
The beauty of the winter landscape was stunning.
The red path markers were even more visible in contrast to the green bamboo forest and the snow-covered grounds.
Despite the freezing cold weather, camellias were still blooming.
All along the way, one can find little statues of Jizōs, which are guardians of the ohenro. Some Jizōs were so old that their bodies were hardly recognisable anymore.
Statue of the Buddha in Pari-nirvana close to the entrance of Shōsanji
It was in the middle of the afternoon when we reached the temple grounds. There was a steep stairway up to the entrance gate. Before reaching the gate, ancient cedar trees and red lanterns were lined up along the path with a statue of Kōbō Daishi on the left hand side.
Temple ground of Shōsanji
I stayed overnight at Nabeiwa-sō, a mountain resort. The house seemed to be made out of paper. It was freezing cold!
