Hiking the Mariazeller Weg in the Waldviertel (Austria)

Originally, I planned to hike the first part of the pilgrimage to Mariazell with a dear friend. This did not work out. I decided to walk alone. For six days, it became a constant time of connection and reconnection with old and new places.

On the way up to Nebelstein (the start of the hike), I stopped at my sister’s place where I was growing up. They opened a new “Hofladen” where they sell fresh organic products. I reconnected with my sisters and my cousin.

Fresh products like carrots, salad, zucchini, red beets etc. In the center, a table with wine, vinegar, eggs, elderberry juice, Demeter cosmetics, the new cookbook written by my sister and much more.

Coffee and cake with my two sisters and my cousin at the Geyerhof

It took more than two hours by car to reach Nebelstein, a charming cabin on the top of a 3000 feet mountain. My husband, David, brought me there.

From Nebelstein, I hiked down to St. Martin, where I stayed overnight in a lovely farm house. On the way, I passed a pond, where I jumped into the cold and clean pond to swim  – what a treat!

This landscape is typical of the northern part of Lower Austria.

The farm where I stayed raised calves. These two calves where just a few days old

Since daylight lasted until 9:30 pm, I still had enough time to hike to Großschönau, a village about 7 miles away. On my way out of St. Martin, I met a group of lovely children of all ages. They showed me their new, secret house in a bush. It reminded me of my own childhood time, when I created a similar house with my sister.

Group of happy and proud children in front to their secret house

This year, the Waldviertel (forest quarter) had extraordinary vegetation caused by much rain. Flowers were blooming in abundance. They were flowers I knew from my childhood and I welcomed them as old friends.

Poppy with two bumble bees

The first poppy opening up. Because of the cool climate, plants like potatoes, poppies and barley are cultivated here.

Cornflowers and marguerites

Bellflowers

The Waldviertel still has a lot of forests. The last part to Großschönau goes through a long stretch of woods. I passed it in early evening and thought about the time 1000 years ago when there was still pure wilderness. At this time, wolves and bears inhabited this area.

In the next village I asked a farmer if wolves had returned. He said “not exactly here in this forest, but three groups of wolves exist in areas not far away from here. They should be eliminated. They attack sheep of the farmers and the animals for hunters. Those “Tierschützer” (people who protect animals) are dreamers and do not care for us. It is a disaster!” I countered his opinion with the fact that every farmer gets compensation for the sheep killed. But this was not enough. “Wolves have no right to live in Austria anymore, he said. They should stay in Russia.”

I always admire how the farmers stack the wood

A typical landscape in the Waldviertel with a group of birch trees and wild roses

One of the sculptures created by an artist. It looked to me like a depiction of the king of the forest crowned by the sun. I do not remember the title nor the name of the artist.

Beside the sculpture above, many other sculptures were in the village. Großschönau is a place where workshops for woodcarvers take place. Often they leave their creation in the village. Großschönau is also known for the yearly fair of organic products. This year the fair was cancelled because of the corona virus.

15h century Gothic church of St. Leonhard in Großschönau

In order to return to St. Martin, I called a taxi without asking the price beforehand. The walk was free, but the taxi ride back cost me $45. (My room cost less that night.) Some things are expensive in the Waldviertel.