Gray Whale watching in Magdalena Bay

It was a 6 hour trip from Cabo San Lucas to Magdalena Bay to see the mother whales with their calves. We stayed overnight in the nearby town of the bay. We were told that it was the best hotel in Ciudad Constitución. With no hot water and a bed that felt like a trampoline when David moved, I was glad that we were put up in a luxury place. However, this discomfort did not matter – the whale watching was an extraordinary experience.

Our hotel – it was safe and clean

Mangrove coast line

Sand dunes with a whale looking at us. (Photo taken by Gala)

Even with no whales, the bay (85 km long) would have made the trip worth while. One side of the shore was lined by magnificent sand dunes with intricate patterns made by the wind. The other shore line opposite of the sandy coast was covered by a thick, lush mangrove belt. It is a heaven for wildlife. Cormorants, ospreys and pelicans were circling above us looking for fish. On the sandy shore, we even saw a coyote just standing and waiting.

Gala, our Spanish guide with the fisherman Peppe

We booked the excursion in Cabo. The company promised professional guides – which we had. Our guide, a marine biologist, was an expert on whales and her first time to see Magdalena Bay. Her enthusiasm was contagious.

Whales circling our boats

Professional fishermen took us out to the bay. We had two 3 hour trips and saw at least hundred whales.

There are about 20 000 gray whales left in the northwestern part of the Pacific Ocean. Gray Whales make the longest migration, travelling from Alaska and the Bering Sea up 1 500 km to spend the winter in warmer areas. it is a 2 month trip, they travel 96 km/day. In the warm and shallow bays, they give birth to their calves. In the past, this was also the best place for whale hunters to kill the whales. It is said that during this time, the water turned red. 1946, whale hunting was forbidden. However, there were no whales left anymore.

Whales consume all the oxygen they take in and can stay up to 26 minutes under water

An adult male has light to dark skin with whitish blotches. The skin is infested with barnacles and cyamids called “whale lice”

Gala told us the story of the homecoming of the whales. It happened in the 70s when a fisherman saw one whale in the water again. He was so excited that he immediately returned to his community and said “the whales have forgiven us!” It took a while til more came back. It also took a while to build up trust, as the fishermen were afraid of the whales. Mother whales fight for their calves furiously to save the life of the babies. Now, the fishermen are friends of the whales.

Mother and baby swimming side by side. A baby drinks up to 189 liters of milk a day. The milk contains 53% fat.

Gray whales communicate mainly with underwater sound and a very low frequency. However, also the body movements are communication.

When we were out in the bay the first day, a group of whales were circling around us, curious who we were. At the same time we were circling around the whales. it was like a dance.

A grown up whales near the Pacific ocean looking at us. (Photo taken by Gala)

In the morning of the second day, we went close to the entrance of the Pacific Ocean. Here were not only mothers with babies but also males and teenagers. We saw at least 100 of those big animals who can weight up to 40 tons and can become 75 to 80 years old. Some of them came very close, but not so close that we could touch them. This would have been a real treat – which happens sometimes. Some mothers are proud to show the babies to humans. However, I spotted one mother whale carrying her baby on the back – and this was very special.

Mother whale with baby on her back. Starting with 8 years old, a whale can get a baby every 2nd year