Camino Primitivo, Day 8

Berducedo – Grandas de Salime

 

The first two hours of the morning hike where still up at an altitude of 3000 feet. The silence, beauty and remoteness of the path was stunning. Windmills on the top of the mountain added a curious, deep sound in the distance.

 

 

Yellow blooming broom along the way
Yellow blooming broom along the way

 

 

Walking constantly into my own morning shadow
Walking constantly into my own morning shadow

 

 

 

Distant windmills
Distant windmills

 

 

Chapel of Santa Marina de Buspol, part of a former hospice
Chapel of Santa Marina de Buspol, part of a former hospice

 

 

 

“Buen camino” is the common greeting form on the Camino in Spain. When Spanish people see a peregrino (pilgrim), they also greet with buen camino. I liked the fact that a cow was included.
“Buen camino” is the common greeting form on the Camino in Spain. When Spanish people see a peregrino (pilgrim), they also greet with buen camino. I liked the fact that a cow was included.

 

 

 

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Soon after the little village of Mesa (20 inhabitants) the path went constantly downhill.   In long and steady spirals it was leading through a dense sweet chestnut forest into the valley to a man made lake.

 

 

 

Embalse de Salime (man made lake) in the distance
Embalse de Salime (man made lake) in the distance

 

 

Blooming sweet chestnut tree to the right
Blooming sweet chestnut tree to the right

 

In former times, bears lived in these mountainous areas. People who kept bees built circular high stone walls in the woods where they kept the beehives so that bears could not get to the honey.

 

 

Circular stone wall for bear protection
Circular stone wall for bear protection

 

Looking to the far shore of the lake, the white houses seemed to be part of a village- but all were abandoned. They had been houses for the workers building the dam during the Franco era starting in 1954. Also the huge construction plant on the hill is a ruin now.

 

 

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The town of Grandas de Salime was – like Tineo and Obona – already an important town during the Middle Ages. However, it doubled its size after the village people of Salime had to leave their home because of the building of the dam.

 

San Salvador with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features
San Salvador with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features

 

 

Gothic Arcades of San Salvador
Gothic Arcades of San Salvador

 

 

Fascinating shadows
Fascinating shadows

 

Grandas de Salime has also one of the best ethnographic museums of Spain. It was interesting to walk through the place and see the different workshops of craftsmen.

 

 

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In the workshop of the shoemaker, I saw the process of making a typical Asturian wooden shoe.
In the workshop of the shoemaker, I saw the process of making a typical Asturian wooden shoe.

 

gwwien
gwwienhttps://simplyjustwalking.com
Born and raised in a village along the Danube in Austria, Traude Wild soon ventured out into the world. After a two-year program for tourism in Klesheim/Salzburg, she spent nearly a year in South Africa and Namibia. By returning back to Austria, she acquired a Master of Economics at the University of Vienna. After moving to the United States with her four children, she studied Art History at Arizona State University and stayed in the United States for fourteen years. Here, she was teaching Art History in several Universities like Webster University and University of Missouri-St. Louis. Now, she lives partially in Arizona and Vienna and works together with her husband for the University of South-Carolina, Moore School of business as Adjunct Professor organising and leading Study tours in Central Europe. She also teaches at the Sigmund Freud University in Vienna. Since 1999, she is practicing Zen meditation in the lineage of Katagiri Roshi. She loves to hike and to write and is a student of Natalie Goldberg. During her often many weeks long hikes she brings her awareness into the Here and Now, describing her experiences in an authentic way. She loves to walk pilgrimages. The longest hike so far was the 1,400 km long 88 Temple pilgrimage in Shikoku, Japan in 2016.

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