Camino Primitivo, Day 2,

Oviedo – Escamplero


Being careful of not repeating my past mistake of walking too many miles the first couple of days, I only walked to the village of Escamplero (8 miles). However, I took a detour to the Pre-Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, both located on a hill above Oviedo.  When I arrived, the morning sun lifted the last remnants of the mist covering the area, creating a nearly mystical atmosphere.








ta Maria del Naranco, 9th century
Santa Maria del Naranco, 9th century




San Miguel de Lillo, 9th century
San Miguel de Lillo, 9th century


After leaving the place, the path took me further up the hill through a deep ravine with many shades of green, the first of many marvelous ravines still to come on my trek. Marigold, hydrangea, roses, geranium were growing in the villages and in front of the typical Asturian square shaped granaries called Hórreo.



Ravines with fern and moss
Ravines with fern and moss












Hórreo (granary)
Hórreo (granary)



Ponte de Gallegos, 13th century
Ponte de Gallegos, 13th century


By not being in a hurry, I could listen to the birds, observe the spiders in their delicate spider webs and smell the wild roses blooming in abundance. The well-marked trail with the symbol of the shell always pointing with the narrow end to the direction of the path made it easy not to get lost.







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Typical marker of the way – tile with yellow shell on blue background
Typical marker of the way – tile with yellow shell on blue background


In comparison to the Camino in France (Via Lemovicensis) or the popular Camino Francés in Spain, where great Romanesque churches are along the way, the Camino Primitivo is a place of little chapels.  Most of them were locked.



Window of the chapel Santa Ana, 15th century
Window of the chapel Santa Ana, 15th century


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Born and raised in a village along the Danube in Austria, Traude Wild soon ventured out into the world. After a two-year program for tourism in Klesheim/Salzburg, she spent nearly a year in South Africa and Namibia. By returning back to Austria, she acquired a Master of Economics at the University of Vienna. After moving to the United States with her four children, she studied Art History at Arizona State University and stayed in the United States for fourteen years. Here, she was teaching Art History in several Universities like Webster University and University of Missouri-St. Louis. Now, she lives partially in Arizona and Vienna and works together with her husband for the University of South-Carolina, Moore School of business as Adjunct Professor organising and leading Study tours in Central Europe. She also teaches at the Sigmund Freud University in Vienna. Since 1999, she is practicing Zen meditation in the lineage of Katagiri Roshi. She loves to hike and to write and is a student of Natalie Goldberg. During her often many weeks long hikes she brings her awareness into the Here and Now, describing her experiences in an authentic way. She loves to walk pilgrimages. The longest hike so far was the 1,400 km long 88 Temple pilgrimage in Shikoku, Japan in 2016.

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  1. I met an author last Saturday who wrote a book about “Camino de Santiago” and her trip and misadventures there. So I am reading her book and visiting your post here….even though I know this adventure was a few years back.

    • In walking the camino, one often meets the inner “damon” in outer circumstances.
      I hope to be able to walk the “Camino del Norte” or the “Via della Plata” sometimes
      next year or the year to follow. It is a very special experience.


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