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Category: Camino Primitivo (page 1 of 3)

Camino Primitivo, Day 20

 LIRES – MUXIA

 

Until the evening, heavy mist covered the coastline to Muxia. I was so thankful for that. Often the path went through Eucalyptus forests, the most common tree along the coast and through lush, green vegetation.

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Camino Primitivo, Day 19

FISTERRE –LIRES

 

It was hard to leave the albergue this morning. I was very tempted to stay one more night – but then, I would have been pressed for time and I still had to deal with my knee problem. I left late. The temperature was climbing up to nearly 104 Fahrenheit, with often no shade. It was a mistake. But the route was spectacular. It was recommended by the author of my guidebook, Raimung Joos, whom I met just by coincidence in Santiago. I followed his recommendation and did not regret it.

 

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Camino Primitivo, Day 18

 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA – FISTERRE

 

In Celtic times and even before, Cape Finisterre was considered the “end of the world” and a major cultic place. Often the medieval pilgrims continued their pilgrimage to Cape Finisterre. At the coast, they collected the scallop as evidence that they had walked the entire Camino to the end of the world. Five years ago, I walked that extra 54 miles with my daughter. This time I only hiked the last eight miles to Fisterre.

 

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Camino Primitivo, Day 16 /17

 MONTE DO GOZO – SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

 

The history of Santiago de Compostela is closely connected with the “discovery” of the burial ground of St. James in 825. However, this place had high cultic relevance already 3000 years ago and was used as a cultic place by Celtic and Roman people. Besides Jerusalem and Rome, Santiago is one of the most important Christian pilgrimage sites. Nowadays, most of the pilgrims walk for different reasons.

 

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Camino Primitivo, Day 15

 RAS – MONTE DEL GOZO

 

Although my knee wanted a rest, I did not want to stay in one of the many albergue for a whole day. There was a pull forward, a stream, in which I was swimming like all the other pilgrims. Also, the place I stayed overnight was unpleasant and I was happy that I could leave it in the morning.

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Camino Primitivo, Day 14

 MELIDE – RAS

 

Already in early morning, masses of pilgrims where pushing forward toward Santiago. I had to let go of the solitude of the past two weeks. But a different energy replaced the silence and peacefulness – it was the energy of many joyful, openhearted, happy people. The pilgrims came from all over the world. I was very surprised to see so many Asian people, especially Koreans. Five years ago, I met only one Asian, a Japanese pilgrim.

 

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Camino Primitivo, Day 13

SAN ROMÁN DE RETORTA – MELIDE

 

The beauty and solitude of the Camino Primitivo was embracing me this day with every step. In the morning, the path followed the original Roman road up a hill. Here, the mist touched the silvery leaves of young Eucalyptus trees and a distinct smell of minty pine filled the air. Although I walked alone, I felt connected with the millions of people of the past walking on this road. A magical silence surrounded me.

 

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