Borres – Berducedo
The hike from Borris to Berducedo is considered the highlight of the Camino Primitivo. The path leads up to nearly 4000 feet and stays up in this height for about 18 miles. It is not recommended to walk it when the weather is bad – but I was lucky. The whole day was cloudless and clear with spectacular views.
The route is called Ruta de los Hospitales because of the five Hospices, which served as shelter for the pilgrims during the Middle Ages. Now, there are only ruins left. The area is so remote that one could meet wild horses, eagles and foxes.
After hours of walking, I passed the little mountain village Montefurado. It consists of several ancient stone houses, leftovers of former hospices. A single man inhabits this remote and peaceful place. He allowed me to fill up my nearly empty water bottle with fresh, cool water from his well.
At the first bar after the mountain pass, I met many of my pilgrim friends. We departed with the greeting of “See you in the next bar.” In the heat of the day, getting a cool drink is a real treat.