BAZAS – CAPTIEUX – ROQUEFORT
Lass dir alles geschehen: Schönheit und Schrecken.
Man muss nur gehen: Kein Gefühl ist das fernste.
Lass dich von mir nicht trennen.
Nah ist das Land
das sie Leben nennen..
Rainer Maria Rilke
Let it all happen to you: beauty and dread. Just walk – no feeling is too far.Do not let yourself be disconnected from me. Very close is the land they call life.
The two days of hiking where miles and miles and miles straight to the west on a former railroad track through a dense forest with hardly any villages in between. The singing of the birds, the sounds of the cicadas and the whispering of the wind in the treetops were the only sounds going with me. Several feet high ferns were growing in between oak and pine trees where the sunlight was making interesting patterns of light and shade.
The seemingly endless way to the west reminded me of a saying of Rosenblum Roshi. He compared our life as being on a railroad track with no beginning or end. In reality, he said, there is nobody in front or in the back of you. Everything is relative.
The pathway was leading over and under bridges and sometimes the golden yellow heads of little chanterelles where peaking out of a dense layer of dry oak leaves on the ground.
In the many hours of walk with not much change of scenery, my mind wanted to be more active. Therefore, I started to memorize one of my favorite Rilke poems. Just walking, breathing, listening to the sounds of nature, feeling the warm air in my face and the words of the poem filled me with great joy.
In Captieux, I stayed at the Syndicat d’initiative run by the city. It was a little house that was newly renovated inside. After cleaning it a bit, I felt very comfortable. I used some of the nettles growing outside for making nettle tea.
The next day was another day of walking on the former railroad tracks for 23 miles. Since Captieux, I was in the region of Les Landes. Until the 19th century, this area was very dangerous to walk through, as the soil consists of white, loose sand, which became a dangerous swampland during heavy rain. Napoleon III ordered pine trees to be planted. Now Les Landes is one of the biggest forest areas in Europe.
Sometimes, young kids where riding motorcycles on the straight roads with high speeds.
Pigeon hunting and looking for mushrooms are two favorite things people like to do in Les Landes. Luckily, I only met mushroom hunters. The mushrooms where not only plentiful, but also gigantic.
In the middle of nowhere, a little 12th century chapel suddenly appeared. For the pilgrims in the Middle Ages, this chapel was for sure a great relief.
I had to pick up the key for the refuge in Roquefort at a bar. I was the only one staying overnight in the big house. A plate of fruit on the dining room table and flowers on each nightstand showed that the people really cared for this place. I loved the medieval character of the town.
Many people before me stayed overnight at the refuge. To my joy, I discovered in the pilgrim’s book the inscription of Emeline, the woman I met on the second day in Saint Reverien. Several days ago, she was at the same refuge.