MUSSIDAN – PORT-SAINTE-FOY-ET-PONTCHAPT
At 6 in the morning, the honking of two cars, loud voices and the overloud beat of music speakers of the cars woke me up. I had enjoyed my solitude of the last couple of weeks so much that this noise was incredible disturbing…………
Again, I had to walk 33 km (20 miles) this day. I needed to make the distance to arrive at Saint-Jean-Pied-de Port latest by July 17.
The Way was leading me through meadows and oak forests and later on to a totally different environment – to vineyards stretching up to the horizon. By coming closer to Spain, the churches also changed to show Spanish influences on their facades.
Long walks on asphalt streets caused my leg muscles to cramp and it was the first time that I took the medicine Alive in order to be able to continue walking. My doubts about the continuation of the Way grew stronger and stronger. At the same time, I was thinking about the millions of people having walked this way over centuries and they had to overcome bigger hassles than just a pain in the leg
The Dordogne River separates the two towns, Port-Sainte-Foye-et-Ponchapt and Sainte-Foy-la-Grande. During the Hundred Years War ( 1337 – 1453), when the French kings were fighting against the Kings of England for the right to rule Aquitanien – a stretch of land in the southwest of France – Port-Sainte-Foye-et Ponchapt was built as a fortified city. Remains of the fortification can still be seen today.
The refuge where I stayed overnight was in the first town. It was a big house with 10 beds and I was the only pilgrim in this place. This was a strange feeling. Like always, I signed my name into the Golden Book, the Book of pilgrims.